Meursault. The word is enough to conjure recollections of heady delights for white Burgundy lovers. Historically, the wines have had a reputation for their nutty, weighty presence, but producers like Domaine Matrot celebrate the more ethereal, light-footed, mineral-driven side of this great Chardonnay terroir, a “no make-up” viewpoint underscored by their wines from nearby Puligny-Montrachet, known for their laser-like focus. Their white wines offer a clear vision of their philosophy through a range of climats.
Based in Meursault, the Matrot family has been farming in the Côte de Beaune for six generations. Over that time, their estate has expanded to 24 hectares (almost 60 acres); it's quite a feat to keep such an extensive family-run domaine together in Burgundy, where land tends to be divided into tiny and tinier parcels as they are passed down. I had the pleasure of tasting through a selection of their elegant wines this spring with Elsa Matrot, one-half of the sister duo helming the estate today. She and her sister Adèle took over in 2016 after working side-by-side with their parents for several years; now, the two of them share the duties, making winemaking, viticultural, and business decisions together.
The family has been farming organically since 2000, and Elsa and Adèle remain committed to this form of land stewardship. Seventy percent of their vineyards are dedicated to Chardonnay, the great grape of the Côte de Beaune, and today’s selection provides a snapshot of their approach from two very different vintages. 2022 was sunny with good yields, and the wines reflect the easy-going nature of the growing season. These are food-friendly, approachable wines, so ready to drink that you may forget to keep a handful aside for aging. 2021 was a much less forgiving vintage where the family lost 80% of their crop. The resulting wines, however, are focused, taut, and very cellar-worthy. We have several of their red wines going back multiple vintages as well, many of which offer great daily-drinking value for Burgundy lovers.
THE WINES
Meursault, 2021 & 2022
Domaine Matrot blends 12 plots to make a classic representative Meursault wine, including parcels from both the hillsides and the flats across 5 hectares, all estate fruit. A pure wine with character, pleasant and charming. It has hints of yellow fruit with a citrus finish.
Meursault-Charmes, Premier Cru, 2022
Les Charmes is considered the archetype of Meursault wines. This appellation is the largest of the Meursault Premier Crus. Matrot owns four plots, of which 70% are located in Charmes-Dessus. Les Charmes is a well-balanced wine with both the ampleness of the Charmes-Dessous and the minerality and elegance of the Charmes-Dessus. Charming in appearance, it is both powerful and full-bodied with a soft and full finish.
Meursault-Blagny, Premier Cru, 2019 & 2022
This Meursault Premier Cru is unconventional. Its aromas are characteristic of clay-limestone soil and in particular, limestone rock subsoil. On the nose you will notice a mix of flint and pure fruit. It is sharp, light and mineral, with a saline finish.
Meursault, Perrières Premier Cru, 2022
Domaine Matrot considers this to be the greatest of all their Meursault wines. It has a mineral and crystalline initial bouquet. The terroir is omnipresent. Both fine and elegant, its powerful salinity awakens the taste buds. It is a vibrant, sapid, and exceptional wine, especially when opened after a few years.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes Premier Cru, 2022
The vines are planted north of Puligny-Montrachet, on the border of Meursault. Facing east on a gentle clay-limestone soil slope, the vineyard has the perfect conditions for the Chardonnay grape variety to grow. Concentrated and pure, this Premier Cru combines great aromatic complexity and refined style. The palate is well-rounded with notes of ripe yellow fruits. It has a tonic finish, with hints of spice.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Chalumeaux Premier Cru, 2021 & 2022
The Chalumeaux terroir is located near Hameau de Blagny, on a hillside facing east and on very rocky marly limestone soil. It has a beautiful aromatic complexity that combines concentration and finesse. Floral aromas and notes of roasted hazelnuts are underlined by an elegant minerality.
